Is simul climbing dangerous reddit.
Posted by u/moreannefrank - 12 votes and 18 comments
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Is simul climbing dangerous reddit I was reading a forum from another poster that said: "simul-climbing is dangerous. Thank you, again. We recommend carefully considering simul-rappelling before using it in the field. Adding safety at the cost of time is just due diligence. 10 trad climbers. Far more. Simul climbing From Wikipedia: Simul climbing or climbing with a running belay is a climbing method or style where both climbers, climb at the same time while tied into the rope. Simul-rappelling just seems unjustifiably sketchy to me. Often, we just take a 70m 7. Although, the technique is a bit more complicated for steep rock than it is in snow, which makes it more dangerous. Pros of Simul Raps: Less time rappelling. Parties are understanding to let you pass. To try and rationlize ways to make it safe is foolish. Ridge of Conness, etc. Cant imagine doing it any other way now. I feel like based on your reference to a team arrest you have more knowledge on mountaineering and not big wall climbing. It’s “weather” if you count all of mountaineering, slip-and-falls in rock climbing specifically, and you can’t even count rappelling as “while climbing” because it’s not while climbing. And yes we are scared of falling. " Simul from after p1 chimney to the rope swing. The Matterhorn is a serious climb. I find simul climbing works best with 30m of rope out, we double the rope over with an "alpine girth hitch" at the mid point. This is an advanced, dangerous, and entirely situation dependent technique that is rarely used outside of alpine where efficiency can be the difference between summiting safely and being stuck in a storm with a Simul-climbing (or using a running-belay) is a climbing technique where a pair of climbers who are attached by a rope simultaneously ascend a multi-pitch climbing route. The real foolishness though is people "simul-climbing" on snow without any anchors. Simul from belay ledge after rope swing to the top. We got up in 4 hours. Jun 24, 2022 · I've always thought simul-climbing to be more dangerous. Accept the seriousness of the situation and do it in the simplest fashion or don't do it at all. When asking on the phone about a course (in europe) where I hoped to learn that kind of stuff I got the response that they will be doing full belays in the course and that simul-climbing often isn't an option anyway. Advantages - Much faster than belayed climbing. The length of rope used during simul climbing varies but is often between 15 and 30m. I do know that I've never reached the bottom of a rappel and thought "man, I sure am glad I simul-rappelled that. 7mm ice twin and tie it as a 35m twin, take a half a trad rack and go. The home of Climbing on reddit. I have actually simul climbed some longer alpine routes with a 60m half rope doubled over as twins. Protection is placed by a pseudo-leader and the second removes the pieces of gear. After a full day of climbing the difference in 2 hours of rapping vs 4 can be pretty big if you're pushing daylight or exhausted. The technical difficulty is not very hard, but it is on shitty loose rock, exposed as fuck, long - like, very long, as in more than 10 hrs climbing up and down long, crowded (which means lots of stones falling on you, rope jam all along, people surpassing, people coming down while you go up which leads to stressful crowded situations in the many bottlenecks All of this is fine, but at the end of the day, climbing is inherently dangerous. You're also spending less time doing the most statistically dangerous part of climbing. Hood disaster where one party clotheslined several others off. See the 2002 Mt. It’s very rare exceptions when people should feel comfortable up that high without any protection, or while simul-climbing. I've never really thought of rope soloing to be all that dangerous, just really, really exhausting on longer routes. The stronger climber always follows and we pitch out the cruxes if needed. 9+, also East to West ridge of Forbidden. 88 votes, 66 comments. (for clarification, the part of rope-soloing where I'm actually using the rope, because there can be fair spells without it) In conclusion: Don't trust the life of your party to a few pieces on rock, especially if you have to ask what the risks are on reddit. Rapping in the dark sucks. With experience, a simul-pitch can stretch for 300m or more, whereas a belayed pitch is limited by the length of your rope. My partner and i arent hardmen, essentially 5. " Your experience definitely helps to put it in perspective. If you know a course that teaches scrambling and simul-climbing (preferably in German), tell me. Its really easy climbing. I've been climbing and rappelling for 20 years, but only really learned counterbalance a couple years ago, so maybe its just a lack of familiarity with the technique. What they were doing is the rock equivalent of a running belay, simul climbing. Basically just a suicide pact at that point since there's no way you can arrest a fall in that scenario. Posted by u/moreannefrank - 12 votes and 18 comments. Simul-rappelling without both climbers having a backup (third-hand) on their respective brake strands doubles the chances of a catastrophe. This technique allows climbers to extend the length of their pitches, without extending the length of their rope. [1] It contrasts with lead climbing where the leader ascends a given pitch on the route while the second climber remains in a fixed position to belay the leader in case they fall. Even worse since you're now a danger to others around you. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Its the most simple rap to set up. Disadvantages - Much more dangerous than belayed climbing. Reply reply More replies Microtrax is amazing for a few things: rope solo (duh) groups of 3 (ehhhhh) simul climbing (for sure) But I have never felt a want or need to use it as a belay device because I generally have a belay device on me, and because if the follower were to fall, especially on steep terrain, it's much more difficult (in my opinion) to lower to a stance safely. 1. Aug 29, 2021 · Strategies like these, and many more detailed in The Mountain Guide Manual, can improve safety and speed for a climbing team. Most notable was the Complete North Ridge of Stuart that's a full on Grade 4 5. [1] Mar 4, 2016 · Simul-climbing is my preferred method when climbing long and easy routes, like Saber Ridge, Royal Arches, N. xqkjzzukvmjcmtcblnrklbaaqgbowlhqgmuhaqlvgbkrzdzlfa